
PHOTO BY DENNY CULBERT
I grew up in a family where it was tradition for my parents to eat red beans and rice every Monday. This is a tradition of New Orleans, where my parents are from. The meat left over from Sunday’s dinner was thrown in a pot of red beans and set to simmer for hours for dinner Monday evening. My mother, upon moving north to Chicago — where she worked first as a high school gym teacher and then a dean of students – brought her food traditions with her. While my brother and I may not have had red beans and rice every Monday, it was in the rotation of our meals enough that it became a staple of my diet, my palate, and eventually my cooking repertoire.
When I left Chicago at 18 to attend Florida State University in Tallahassee, I distinctly remember craving red beans and rice on fried chicken day in my dorm’s cafeteria. However, that wasn’t the side the cooks prepared, and I only had a microwave in my room, which lent itself to reheating fast-food leftovers or warming a bowl of chicken-flavored ramen. I was desperate for a familiar meal, and my grandmother obliged. She sent me a few cans of Blue Runner red beans in the mail; the closest, she said, I could get to what tasted like homemade beans. Upon receiving my gift, I immediately took the bus to the grocery store and picked up some Minute Rice and turkey smoked sausage I could heat in the microwave. With my ingredients stocked in my room, all I had to do was bide my time until the next fried chicken day. When it came around weeks later, I scurried out of the café, ran up to my room on the fourth floor, and got to work. Rice, beans, and meat were all warmed in the microwave, I carried it down to the café, got in line, and heaped a crispy, fried leg and a thigh on my plate, went to the table where my roommate sat, and ate. The first bite was home. I savored it on my tongue. Even though I was far away from my mother and my grandmother, I had them — albeit underseasoned — on my plate.
My love for red beans and rice has never wavered. I doctored the dish in my dorm, I cooked it for the first time on a stove in my college off-campus apartment, and perfected my technique when I moved to Amarillo, Texas. I worked my first news job and met my husband there. The first meal I ever made for him was red beans and rice. In our 10 years together I’ve made them often, not every Monday often, but often enough that I never miss them, I never crave them.
Then one day he said, “All we have is beans and rice?”
“Yes, what’s wrong with that?” I asked.
He calmly responded, “That’s like, poor-people food.” Read more
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